Press the Enter key to complete the action (see Fig. Using the arrow keys, enter the seam width value into both the beginning and the end of the line fields. It is advisable now to use the dialogue box to add exactly the correct amount.
Click on the line to which a seam allowance is to be added and drag the cursor at 90° to the line. How much extra is determined by the specific garment maker.ħ.2.2 Adding seam allowance F4 – Line seam is used to add seam allowances. Bespoke garments regularly allow extra seam allowance for this purpose. The centre back seam of men’s trousers is the most visible example where a seam allowance of 30 mm is allowed at the waist narrowing to 10 mm at the hip level. Inlay is a term for allowing extra seam allowance for garment adjustment. Top-stitched seams will need a seam depth that accommodates the decorative stitch. 40 mm hems for jackets and coats bagged out with a lining. 30 mm hems for skirt and trouser felled hems.
15 mm/25 mm for turned and stitched hems. those that form a finished edge such as facings or collar and cuff edges. Seam allowance as they are overlocked together in a way which butts the edges together. No allowance – some pile fabrics including sheepskins and faux furs require no extra 5 mm/10 mm for specialist machinery used for cut-and-sew knits, laces and leathers or for adding special trims and need to be assessed individually. 10 mm for a lapped seam typically used on jeans and heavy-weight casual items. 10 mm/12 mm for a French seam used on soft fabrics such as silks and fine cottons. Includes trousers and skirts, and often with a small amount of stretch in the cloth. Widely used in many different unlined garment types. 10 mm for a five-thread machine that sews and overlocks in one go. 8 mm/10 mm for a four-thread safety stitch machine used for bias-cut and jersey garments. 12 mm for a flat stitch open seam with overlocked edges. Mostly used for tailoring and coats but suitable for any fully lined garment. Guidance for particular situations includes the points below.ġ0 mm for a flat stitched open seam with edges left raw because garment will be lined. There are some conventions such as using 12 mm (1/2″) for main seams and 6 mm (1/4″) for bagging out seams but they are not always appropriate and depend on three main factors:įabric, seam finish, type of sewing machine.
A top and under sleeve illustrate most of the corner options, with the change corner tab selected to define the corner shapes Lectra is the copyright owner of all Modaris software images reproduced herein with its permission () text © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2012ħ0 Pattern cutting for clothing using CADħ.2.1 A note on seam allowances The amount of extra fabric allowed to form the seam allowance varies according to the requirements of the garment and how it is finished. Finishing, seam allowances, corners and grain lines. This chapter continues from Chapter 6 by looking at the following functions in the Lectra Modaris toolbox: F4, F5, F6 (incorporating F9 and F10), F7 and F8 (including F12).į4: finishing, seam allowances, corners and grain linesħ.1 Menu F4. Key words: toolbox, F4, F5, F6, F7, F8, lines and points, notches, Lectra Modaris. This chapter focuses on the F4, F5, F6, F7 and F8 menus. Chapter 7 A guide to the toolbox in Lectra Modaris pattern cutting software: F4–F8Ībstract: The purpose of this chapter is to introduce the Modaris user to the specific pattern cutting toolbox displayed on the right-hand side of the screen, also known as the trade functions.